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  • #16
    I had the rotors machined and the right rotor run-out is now in spec. However the left one still isn't. I rotated the rotor 180 degrees on the hub flange and got the same results. I did a run-out check on the hub flange itself and got a 0.011" variation so it appears the hub flange is the problem, not the rotor. Is it a matter of new bearings and hub flange or could it be something else? Thanks.

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    • #17
      I've ordered new drive hubs, swivel hubs, bearings and ball joints. However after cleaning up the drive shafts I see that the left outside bearing has apparently slightly "machined" the shaft. Is there some tolerance for this, a fix or is a new shaft required?
      Thanks.

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      • #18
        Addendum - Rather than the drive shaft, I should have been called the CV Joint.

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        • #19
          In my experience the CV can touch the driveshaft and leave a mark around it. Unless it's fairly deep I wouldn't worry about it. If your fingernail can just catch the edge it's only about 0.001" and isn't a problem. On the other hand if it's depth is the same as the thickness of a dime even I would consider replacing the drive shaft. Measuring the diameter to determine the depth might be helpful. The only driveshaft failure I have ever see involved failure of the splines that go into the CV.


          Kelley
          If you can afford the car, you can afford the manual...

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          • #20
            just to clarify definitions. As i understand the terms the drive shaft runs from the transmission to the CV joint. The CV joint and shaft run to the driving hub. It is on this portion of the shaft that there is scouring, apparently from the outside wheel bearing. The normal shaft diameter is about 1.250 inches, at the worst of the scouring it's about 1.245 inches.

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            • #21
              I may have misinterpreted what you mean. Is the wear on the stub shaft of the CV joint that passes through the bearings? This is the shaft between the articulating part of the CV and the drive flange.


              Kelley
              If you can afford the car, you can afford the manual...

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              • #22
                yes, the wear is on the sub shaft

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                • #23
                  0.005" of wear seems pretty bad. I don't think I ever seen one that bad. It sounds like the bearing may have locked up spun on the stub shaft. Also possible someone installed a lower quality CV. Did the outer race of the wheel bearing in the swivel hub fit well?


                  Kelley
                  If you can afford the car, you can afford the manual...

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                  • #24
                    I replaced the drive flanges, swivel hubs, bearings and on the worn shaft the CV joint/shaft. brake run-out is 0.15 and 0.17 mm but the brake shimmy is gone (for now). By the way, I used the Haynes tool tip to hold the hubs stationary while breaking the nuts loose and also overtorquing them to allow installation of the split pin. I made the tool out of 1 1/4", 1/8" thick angle iron and saw no deflection. I also found that 2" schedule 40 ABS pipe is the perfect size for installing bearings and seals.

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                    • #25
                      Thanks for the tip on the ABS pipe but cannot figure out use of angle iron for the tool. I had to use flat bar.

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                      • #26
                        Haynes shows flat bar for their Tool Tip. I figured angle iron would be less likely to bend sideways.

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