SAMOA

Canine · 03-07-2010, 02:01 PM

My Dad recently replaced the shift seal at the back of the transmission. In order to get the old one out he had to drill a small hole in the aluminum, put a small screw in the hole and remove the seal. I have to do mine soon and would love to know if there is another trick to this?

Thanks in Advance

Greg

timc · 03-10-2010, 12:10 PM

thats one way to do it... probably better then how i did it...i drilled two angled holes on opposite ends, and used a pick tool on each side to grab and pull it out slowly rocking it back and forth. the screw idea probably works well?

Canine · 03-10-2010, 12:58 PM

Thanks for the advice, I'll bite the bullet and get out the drill....

Cheleker · 03-10-2010, 08:19 PM

Greg, The aluminum support does perform some sealing function, but it's main purpose is to support the rod shifter. The lack of support was one of the main reasons for failure of the seal. The gearbox casing was evenutally redesigned with more support for the rod late in the Mini's life. (I've never been able to determine when.) If you feel the need to remove the aluminum piece, the suggests made will work.

The other cause for failure of the seal is leaving the accordian gaiter off of the exposed rod. Dirt gets on the rod and makes a nice sandpaper as the rod moves in and out of the seal.

Canine · 03-15-2010, 06:54 PM

Thanks for the reply, I would love to pick your brain sometime. Yes my gaiter is hard and not protecting the shaft anymore (there's probably a drug that can help me) at least there isn't a dripping leak yet. My father made a video of how he changed the seal in his mini.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61FMWca5AM8

Cheleker · 03-15-2010, 08:30 PM

Interesting video. There's no need to slot the bracket (or remove it). Step two of the seal removal procedure (step one is to drain the oil!) is to put the gear lever in reverse. That angles the roll pin so it is easier to get out and reinstall.
Using a proper roll pin punch or at least a flat drift is important.
I taper slightly the end of the roll pin that is going back in first.
I also thread a little safety wire through the roll pin a couple of times.
If the roll pin goes back in too easily, it's time to replace the coupling.
I'm sure there's more...

03-07-2010, 02:01 PM	#1
Canine Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 56	Rod Shift Seal My Dad recently replaced the shift seal at the back of the transmission. In order to get the old one out he had to drill a small hole in the aluminum, put a small screw in the hole and remove the seal. I have to do mine soon and would love to know if there is another trick to this? Thanks in Advance Greg

03-10-2010, 12:10 PM	#2
timc Mini Mafia Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Bothell Posts: 143	thats one way to do it... probably better then how i did it...i drilled two angled holes on opposite ends, and used a pick tool on each side to grab and pull it out slowly rocking it back and forth. the screw idea probably works well? __________________ '98 Rover Mini retro Sportpack (brooklands green)- name:Frankenstein (a ton of different parts from all sorts of years of minis)

03-10-2010, 12:58 PM	#3
Canine Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 56	Thanks for the help! Thanks for the advice, I'll bite the bullet and get out the drill....

03-10-2010, 08:19 PM	#4
Cheleker S'Mokin' Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 747	Greg, The aluminum support does perform some sealing function, but it's main purpose is to support the rod shifter. The lack of support was one of the main reasons for failure of the seal. The gearbox casing was evenutally redesigned with more support for the rod late in the Mini's life. (I've never been able to determine when.) If you feel the need to remove the aluminum piece, the suggests made will work. The other cause for failure of the seal is leaving the accordian gaiter off of the exposed rod. Dirt gets on the rod and makes a nice sandpaper as the rod moves in and out of the seal. __________________ The more I know about Minis, the more I know I don't know about Minis.

03-15-2010, 06:54 PM	#5
Canine Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 56	Thanks Chuck Thanks for the reply, I would love to pick your brain sometime. Yes my gaiter is hard and not protecting the shaft anymore (there's probably a drug that can help me) at least there isn't a dripping leak yet. My father made a video of how he changed the seal in his mini. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61FMWca5AM8

03-15-2010, 08:30 PM	#6
Cheleker S'Mokin' Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 747	Interesting video. There's no need to slot the bracket (or remove it). Step two of the seal removal procedure (step one is to drain the oil!) is to put the gear lever in reverse. That angles the roll pin so it is easier to get out and reinstall. Using a proper roll pin punch or at least a flat drift is important. I taper slightly the end of the roll pin that is going back in first. I also thread a little safety wire through the roll pin a couple of times. If the roll pin goes back in too easily, it's time to replace the coupling. I'm sure there's more... __________________ The more I know about Minis, the more I know I don't know about Minis.

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